Clearing Customs — Greece

It is amazing that the Athenians had so much insight into mankind’s fundamental values – even in the 5th century BC. They encouraged balance – building the Acropolis to include a place to perfect their bodies, which they called a gymnasium (from the Greek work gumnos meaning naked) next to a place to worship; a temple to Athena who battled Poseidon and then won the hearts of the people by extending an olive branch for peace instead of displaying force as the sea god once did.
These people valued knowledge and encouraged citizens to be curious, learn governance and conduct themselves in a manner that benefitted the “publica”. Anyone who was self-centered and looked out only for self-interest instead of the greater good was termed an “idiot”. The ancient Greeks did struggle with striking this balance, and it is evident not only in their city planning and architecture, but also in the way they preserved history.
Our tour guide in Athens tried to strike a balance between her English speaking clients and the few French ones who insisted they did not understand English even though they were on the English tour. She led us to the statues on display at the Acropolis Museum; the ones salvaged from war with first the Persians, then the Romans and later the Ottoman Turks. Unlike Roman statues, which were mass produced and endured much head swapping – which sometimes got lost in transit (that’s why you often see Roman statues headless on display), the Greek statues show immense details of clothing carved in the alabaster and careful consideration of the extremities – precise toes and fingers. But most importantly, the emotions of the time: the demure girl with a coy expression, a clenched jaw of an angry, powerful man.
You can hike up to see the city of balance and gaze upon the Parthenon up close. You can meander through the flourishing Monastiraki Square and Andrianou Street where beautiful balconies drip with ivy and plump flowers bloom out of window boxes above cafes with outdoor seats spilling on wide, brick sidewalks. You will have to dodge street vendors who speak five to six languages, coaxing you into their souvenir shops, but keep your eyes on the prize: Veranda restaurant. It is the only place to find your own balance as a world-wind tourist. Here you can prop your feet up, sip a cool Mythos beer, sample some fresh lamb kebabs and Greek salad and stare up at the Acropolis, that was once the grandest achievement of engineering and architecture man has ever created.

Originally published in NRV Magazine