Krisha

Maybe the Middle East isn’t the first place you’d think of visiting when booking your next vacation. Travel to this area may not receive the best endorsement, but the fact is, the world can be a precarious place no matter where you go. Although I advocate safety, I also am overcome by the richness gained through exploration. In that vein, I recommend putting Istanbul, Turkey, on your bucket list if you’re the type of traveler who desires a “wow” factor.

This city has it all ~ more than 2,000 years old with a perfect blend of ancient and modern architecture, Eastern and Western culture. It has been the capital of three great empires – Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman, although it is not the capital of Turkey. You must stop into one of the many Turkish bath houses or Hamams. Get the authentic experience of the scrub down, massage and warming and cooling rooms where you relax in luxurious octagonal pools or treat your skin to a fresh steam.

Also make sure you visit the Grand Bazaar where you can bargain and buy a wooden backgammon board with mother-of-pearl inlay or a hand-woven carpet that might resemble something from the movies that flies and takes you on a magical ride! The Spice Market is one of the most exotic sights. Filled with hundreds of stalls selling fruits, powders, oils, nuts and sweets, the aroma is heavy with a mouth-watering effect. Every conceivable spice is sold, and the deep colors of saffron, nutmeg, cinnamon and mint are magnificent.

In terms of landmarks and historic sites, Istanbul is home of the Hippodrome, the scene of chariot races during Constantinople’s (the name Istanbul was known by during the Ottoman Empire) heyday and home to more than 3,000 mosques, including the famed Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. A trip to see the latter two sites is a must and will take your breath away. Built by Constantine the Great in the 4th century, the Hagia Sophia is one of the world’s only basilicas that has been both a church and mosque. The golden mosaics depicting stories of emperors and saints are mesmerizing, and the huge dome lined with large, coin-shaped symbols in Arabic make this structure one of the architectural marvels of the world.

The Blue Mosque across from Hagia Sophia is equally as impressive. Although not required, females may choose to cover their heads out of respect when entering this jaw-dropping feat of classical Ottoman architecture. Built with more than 20,000 blue Iznik tiles, the structure is the only mosque flanked by six minarets. Our tour guide told us that Sultan Ahmed I, who ordered the mosque to be built from 1609 to 1616, asked the architect to build the minarets out of gold. The word “gold” and “six” sound similar; the architect misunderstood and built six minarets.

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey and the only city in the world that spans Europe and Asia. Visiting Istanbul, therefore, is an elegant opportunity to visit two continents in one trip. My husband and I did just that. On one of our evening walks around the city, we passed a restaurant with a very persuasive caller beckoning tourists inside. The man was extremely friendly, a common trait in Istanbul we learned, and could greet people in at least a dozen languages. We were impressed with his confidence, comedy, tenacity and hustle as he made his 5-second pitch to curious couples strolling by.

The restaurant was Vuslat Ocakbasi and his name was Selcuk. As we sat among ornate, decorated pillows and dipped oversized inflated bread in homemade hummus served with a block of feta cheese and olives, we learned that Selcuk studied at Harvard and returned home to help his country and the family business. He wanted to show us true hospitality, so he invited us home to meet his family who lived on the Asian side of the city.

So, the next day we found ourselves taking a taxi, a train, then a ferry across the mighty Bosporus Strait to the other continent. Finally, a car pulled around and Selcuk yelled from the window. He drove us to his house for a traditional Turkish breakfast. When we saw the spread, we couldn’t believe our eyes. There were at least 14 made-from-scratch dishes set out on copper plates and platters served with fragrant tea sweetened with honey and cherries.

As we sat to begin our Turkish feast with the family, my hesitation to make the transcontinental trek to meet these strangers melted away. Selcuk’s dad raised his delicate teacup, toasted to new friends and turned to us: “Please tell your friends in America about the hospitality you experienced here in Turkey.” And as we chatted about the Middle East, I was reminded that the warmth of the meal and the sincerity of those who made it was the reason traveling brings people together all over the world.

Krisha Chachra is Vice Mayor of the Town of Blacksburg and a regular columnist and author who has traveled to over 40 countries in 6 continents and reported and hosted shows for public radio and television. Her columns are taken from her journals and personal insights from traveling nationally and internationally throughout her life. Her book about returning to Blacksburg, Homecoming Journals, may be found online or in local bookstores.

Originally published in NRV Magazine

For those of you who are Elvis fans, you might have seen the 1963 musical comedy film “Fun in Acapulco”. You know, the one where Elvis gets a job as a singer and a lifeguard in a hotel in Acapulco, Mexico? Well, several years ago, my mom remembered the lead single from the movie, “Bossa Nova Baby!” and there was no turning back – we were going to have our own vacation fun in Acapulco!
Playa Condesa is probably the most crowded and well-known beach in the city on the Acapulco Bay (Santa Lucia) side. The beach attracts many food and handicraft vendors. Bring your bargaining skills, along with your pesos and broken Spanish to get the best price. Sometimes you can even haggle for beach chairs and umbrellas. Ask the fellow renting if that’s the best price, then say what you’re willing to pay for the whole day. Most likely you’ll strike a deal worth watching all day beach drama unfold in front of the backdrop of the calming Pacific Ocean.
One of the most remarkable peddlers was a man selling fresh, whole mangoes. The juicy fruit, peel off, was sliced like a tulip with a stick in the place of a stem. Hot chili powder was sprinkled on top giving the mango an enticing burst. I believe the other tourists along the beach were seduced by the fruit, too – my mom, an immigrant from India, eagerly bought one. She, however, refused to share, warning us that our “American stomachs” probably couldn’t handle any bacteria that might be left over from washing and preparation. She was right; several tourists complained that their loved ones got “Montezuma’s Revenge” after eating food sold on the beach.
There are other activities, besides eating, that are less dangerous – well, depending on if you’re a participant or a spectator. My brother and I decided to parasail – the water activity where they strap you to a parachute and pull you over the ocean with a long cord attached to a speedboat. My mom was hesitant to leave us at the mercy of an overly-eager, Mexican fast-talker who convinced us it was totally safe and very fun. My brother and I were insistent, but as we sailed over the ocean, the wind changed, and we realized my mom’s concern. We skimmed over the beach and clearly drifted closer to hotel buildings than water. Although we were thrilled, my mom swore she wouldn’t let us do that again. Perhaps parasailing would be less risky further down the beach at Playa Icacos. This strip of sand is the largest beach and home to a recreation area and all the same water sports — minus the vendors and crowds.
No trip to Acapulco would be complete without that famous scene in the Elvis movie when he performs a death-defying dive off the huge cliff of La Quebrada. The famous cliff divers of Le Quebrada are celebrities themselves and completely worth the price of admission. Since 1934, they have leapt from 148-foot jagged cliffs into deep water, fearless and unguarded. The show usually takes place in the afternoon when the tide comes in, but sometimes divers leap at dusk which makes watching even more nail-biting. It might not be Elvis successfully landing in the water, but the experience you witness is equally as legendary.

Originally published in NRV Magazine

The minute you walk off the plane in India, it hits you. An overwhelming assault on your sense: the smells, the colors, the heat, the noise. With a billion people, the world’s largest democracy and one of the fastest growing economies, the country can be overwhelming and extraordinary for westerners to visit. India is a land of extremes: extreme temperatures, beauty, poverty, technology, history, wealth, population, traffic, and opportunity. And if you go there, be ready for an unforgettable adventure.
India is the only country in the world that has more than one billion people in a land mass that is one third the size of China or the United States. It is the origin of four world religions including Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism and hosts residents who practice many other religions including Christianity and Islam. India’s diversity is also reflected in the language. Several mother tongues are recognized, but the census has counted more than 1,600 languages in the country. Hindi and English are the main languages taught in schools and used in government, but some states legislate in their own languages. The diverse communication adds to the challenge and complication that makes India a unique environment to govern and do business in.
Despite all the diversity, the 28 states and seven union territories all have something in common – a deep history and spectacular attractions. In the capital of Delhi, there is Raj Ghat, Mahatma Gandhi’s memorial marking the spot of his cremation with an eternal flame. Winner of multiple awards for architecture, The Lotus Temple is a massive flower-like house of worship for the Baha’i that is prominent in the Delhi night sky when it is illuminated. But the most famous attraction is outside Delhi in Agra where the magnificent Taj Mahal stands. Completed in 1648 as a tomb for Emperor Shah Jahan’s beloved third wife Momtaz Mahal, the Taj Mahal’s most dazzling feature is its onion-shaped marble dome with a lotus design at the top. Fancy calligraphy frames the structure with scripture and poetic verses that were once encrusted with jewels later taken by the colonial powers during their rule in India. The four minarets flanking the tomb were meant for worship; they were built slightly off-center so they would fall away from the structure in case of a natural disaster.
I also took a road trip to Jaipur to see the Hawa Mahal or “Palace of Winds.” This towering, honeycombed, pink sandstone structure adored with intricate latticework has 953 windows all used by royal ladies who could peer down at the street below to observe the action without being seen.
There is nothing quite as extreme as driving down the streets of India. My aunt describes it best: “In India, people drive from one crisis to the next.” On the road to Jaipur, our driver weaves through honking cars, rickshaws, vegetable carts, buffalo and even an elephant – at times driving down the wrong way on the road dodging skinny bikers carrying grocery items in one hand and steering with the other. Children – two or three at a time – cling to fathers who balance them on their scooters while other kids grab a free ride on a car by hanging on the back and standing on the bumper. At the same time, buses packed with people, some hanging from the sides, whizz by. One big bump in the road or sharp turn, and it could be all over for someone in this chaotic scene.
But there is a subtle beauty in the rhythm of it all. In Jaipur, among the splendor and five-star hotels, the sidewalks are blanketed with thousands of street vendors selling Indian mirror-work clothing and handicrafts begging to be sold for a good bargain. Strong, able, men rest on their haunches and take a break from the heat along the roadside. The women with their dusty hair and sandy feet wear brilliant-colored saris draped over their dark bodies and smile broadly under the large baskets balanced on their heads.
Despite all the extremes that the people of India experience, there is a quiet balance of life that this ancient culture has mastered. It is no wonder that visitors from all over the world still travel from afar to be part of this alluring and mesmerizing place.

Originally published in NRV Magazine